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Austis Desulo Fonni Gavoi Lodine Mamoiada Ollolai Olzai Orgosolo Ovodda Teti Tiana Tonara
 

 
puntoverde An itinerary which leads us to discover the mysterious attractions of the ancient civilisation of the Sardinians could well begin in Orgosolo, a town of great natural beauty and important archaeological sites.
About 10 km from the town, along the Nuoro road, are the domus de janas (Fairies’ houses) of Calavriche. This necropolis consists of three tombs dug out of granite dating back to around 3,500 BC, they are of particular interest as traces of drawings that decorate the architectural structures are still discernible. Also in front of one of the tombs are the remains of a dolmen.

nuraghe MereuStill in the territory of Orgosolo is the Mereu nuraghe, made from blocks of white limestone, surrounded by a small village composed of nuraghic huts, also made from limestone . The very well preserved nuraghe rises up from a hill which faces the Gorroppu gorge, Europe’s deepest canyon, which in turn is surrounded by the beautiful forest of Sas Baddes, one of the last primitive forests of the Mediterranean.

puntoverde From Orgosolo after travelling along the provincial road n° 22 for about 10 km we arrive in the town of Mamoiada where other peculiarities of the island’s archaeological patrimony await us. Among these perhaps the most relevant is to be found inside the town: the Sa Perda Pinta menhir. This gigantic granite monolith 2.67 m by 2.10 m, goes back, in all probability, to the III millennium BC, and exhibits the characteristic concentric engravings and small cupellations that are without equal elsewhere on the island and that instead lend themselves to be comparable to those on some Scottish monoliths.

puntoverde Leaving the town heading in the direction of Lanusei, along the traces of the old state road n° 389, a sign indicates the presence of a group of Domus de Janas known as concheddas or honcheddas in the area of Istevène, which can be reached on foot by climbing up a brief slope. In one of these, on a rectangular pillar, a schematic bull’s head in relief is visible.

puntoverde Once past the phantom town of Pratobello, after about 2.5 km on our left side we find the four imposing Giants’ Tombs of Madau that date back to XII-XI centuries BC. In the same area an equally interesting nuraghic site (that belongs to the municipality of Fonni) is to be found, that of Gremanu: this consists of a complex dedicated to the water cult and is formed by a series of baths connected to each other by small, perfectly smoothly cut basalt canals. According to archaeologists this is, up until now, the only example of a nuraghic acquaduct, whose waters were used for religious rites and the necessities of the village’s inhabitants.
After having visited the Donnoro nuraghe, the most important one in the area, we retrace our steps in order to visit the town of Fonni, which is worth a break in our archaeological itinerary, with its Basilica dei Martiri (The Martyrs’ Basilica), an interesting 17th century church.

puntoverde Leaving Fonni we have two alternatives, both equally interesting.
The first leads us to follow the SS 389 for a few km, then to deviate along the SS 128 in the direction of Lodine – Gavoi, going around the artificial lake of Gusana to finally arrive, after a small detour to the right, at the Santu Micheli-Urrui complex, a hill on which there are several menhirs, also called phallic rock structures, ancient symbols of the male sex that testify the pagan fertility cult. Two of these are still perfectly in place while the other three are lowered onto the ground. On the site a tomb with wings, a readapted stele and fragments of a stele from a Giant’s Tomb can also be seen.
The second possibility is to deviate a few km from Fonni in the direction of Lodine along the provincial road n° 14. Before arriving at the settlement one finds the fork road for the church of Nostra Signora d’Itria, in the territory of Gavoi. This church is also worthy of a visit, to enjoy the peace of the ancient country sanctuary, surrounded by cumbessias, low houses built around the perimeter, used by pilgrims and the faithful celebrating the novena. Inside the fence there is a menhir, about 3.60 m high, sculpted from a massive granite block that gives witness to the use of the area for cult purposes, from the pre-nuraghic age.
The necropolis of Uniai that belongs to the same period can be reached simply by proceeding a few kilometres onwards.
Continuing along the same road, one arrives at the nuraghic village of Soroeni: inhabited up until the 18th century BC, the village consists of numerous huts laid out in a complex plan.

Domus de Janas puntoverde Turning back on our route we arrive at the enchanting village of Lodine, the smallest settlement in the BIM’s territory which, with its 407 inhabitants and thanks to its strategic position, was of great importance in ancient times. Its position, 900 m above sea level, allows it to dominate a good part of Central Sardinia. A great number of nuraghi were infact built in this area as the Nuraghic people chose easily defendable high ground to construct their sites on. First and foremost among these is Trinta Batallas (thirty battles) whose name is due to the fact that it was the scene of many conflicts. This nuraghe is initially partially hidden from sight by the church of San Giorgio. Whichever road we now choose leads us to Gavoi, a town which is a must for a visit, both because of the austere beauty of its historical centre and for the excellent food which can be tasted there. After a look at the Talaichè nuraghe, an example of the most simple mono tower type, with a perfectly preserved covering (la tholos), we continue onward on the last stage of our tour in the discovery of the archaeological treasures of the territory of the BIM: Ollolai.

puntoverde Contrary to what we have seen thus far, the area is relatively poor in nuraghi (in the whole municipality there are only four). However, evidence exists that the area was also used in previous eras, as shown by the systematic diggings found not far away from the chiesa of San Basilio, called Sa Conca Frabià ( the constructed cavity) a refuge under a natural rock form made also with granite blocks, used by Sardinians four thousand years ago and continually re-used in successive ages.


 

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